Wargames @ farfaraway.org » Painting Guide

Kallus – Step-by-step Painting Guide (Video)

Owen — Fri, 19 Aug 2011 07:45:52 +0000

My Ninja shopper Stu sent this model back from GenCon. I couldn’t wait to get it on the painting table. Here’s the result -

Here are the photos I took while painting him. The base still needs to be done – I’ll get to it over the weekend.

Enjoy!

Owen

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Converting and Painting Absylonia (Video)

Owen — Mon, 08 Aug 2011 21:44:38 +0000

I think one of the reasons Absylonia has sat unpainted for so long is that I detest the original model. In this video I talk about the conversion I did and how I painted the model.

Owen

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Malifaux – Painting Sonnia Criid

Owen — Tue, 17 May 2011 21:22:31 +0000

This video runs through the underpainting technique I used to paint Sonnia Criid.

Enjoy!

Owen

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Paint the Target – Ravagore

Owen — Tue, 03 May 2011 11:00:19 +0000

Last month’s (April 2011) “Paint the Target” challenge on Lost Hemisphere was to paint a “Ranged Model”. It gave me an excuse to assemble and paint my Ravagore. I painted it at the same time as the Raek. Here it is -

Assembling it took time, but wasn’t too bad. It is comprised of 18 pieces and requires a bit of putty work. I left the blast off when painting. I used some slate on the base and took a good bit of time placing pieces of stone and repositioning legs. I’m really happy with the final pose.

For painting I used a white undercoat and then some light glazes to achieve the final result. For the purple flesh I used Hormagaunt Purple, Water and Glaze Medium (3:2:2). This was then washed with a very watery Leviathan Purple. On the carapace areas I based with Graveyard Earth, Water and Glaze Medium (3:3:2) and it was washed with Devlan Mud, Badab Black and water (2:2:1). The teeth are a watered down Bleached Bone, highlighted with Bleached Bone and Skull White (1:1) and washed with a watered down Devlan Mud. The mouth is Gore Red, watered slightly and washed with Badab Black and Ball Red. The blue flame is watered down Ice Blue and is then washed with Asurmen Blue.

And that’s about it…

Enjoy,

Owen

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Malifaux – Painting Witchling Stalkers

Owen — Mon, 02 May 2011 11:00:35 +0000

This video runs through the underpainting technique I used to paint the Witchling Stalkers.

Enjoy!

Owen

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Painting Guide for Spell Martyrs (Video)

Owen — Sat, 01 Jan 2011 11:43:47 +0000

Glazing is an interesting technique that I started on the Legion of Everblight a few years ago. Here’s a video talking about glazing.

Enjoy,

Owen

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Updating Legion to MkII (Video)

Owen — Wed, 29 Dec 2010 12:30:57 +0000

Here’s a quick video featuring the Legionnaires, Warmonger and Blighted Archers I painted to max out my units. MkII introduced a bit of a problem for me in all of my factions had units that were between min and max sizes, but MkII only allows either max or min units.

I also show off the new Striders in the video and talk a little about glazing as a painting technique.

Owen

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Pirate Queen Skarre: Painting Guide

Owen — Sat, 11 Dec 2010 19:16:51 +0000

I got a chance to paint up the new (2009) sculpt for Skarre a couple of nights ago. It took about 4 hours to paint, but if you painted more areas the same colour or had fewer highlights it could be a lot faster. Here’s a quick step-by-step painting guide.

Undercoat I used Gesso to undercoat the model as it’s too cold to reliably spray. Cold and humidity can cause misting on miniatures that are sprayed. For any bit that are missed I use a watered down Chaos Black to cover them. I also glued the sand to the base as I was basing another miniature anyway.

Flesh Next up is the skin and there is quite a bit of it on Skarre! I used a watered down Tallarn Flesh as the base coat and then applied increasing amounts of Elf Flesh to the layered highlights. Then I added Skull White in the next couple of highlights.
For the eyes I used Bleached Bone as the base, trying to leave some black around the edges. Chaos Black was used to dot the eye. I added a tiny bit of Hormagaunt Purple to one of the medium flesh highlights and applied it as eye shadow.

Finally I added a small bit of Mechrite Red to that same flesh highlight to paint the bottom lip.

Purple Coat The coat was based Hormagaunt Purple. It’s a Citadel Foundation paint and I usually find it best to water these down a good bit. Next up were three highlights, each with an increasing amount of Skull White, the first of which was 1:1. Last up was a wash of Leviathan Purple.

Cloak The cloak was painted in a similar manner to the coat. The base coat was Greatcoat Grey and Blue Ice (2:1) and there were three/four drybrushed highlights with Skull White added. This was then washed with a 1:1 mix of Asurmen Blue and Badab Black. Ice Blue was used for the glow of the Necrotite.

Hair, Horns and Leather The hair was based a 1:1 mix of Chaos Black and Codex Grey. It was then painted with Codex Grey by drawing the edge of the brush across the ridges in the hair. Finally the prominent hair detail was highlighted with Fortress Grey.
The Horns and Leather were painted using the same scheme – Khemri Brown as a base, with increasing amounts of Bleached Bone and then a Devlan Mud wash. The Horns received more highlighting.

Metals The metals are the final step and require the most care. I tend to leave metals to last if I can as I’m very lazy at changing my water and I don’t want metallic flecks contaminating the other colours! There are two metallic colours – Steel and Brass.
For the Steel I based using a watered down Boltgun Metal, I highlighted with Mithril Silver and washed with Devlan Mud and Badab Black.

For the Brass I based with a 1:1 mix of Khemri Brown and Brass Balls. This was highlighted with a 1:1 mix of Brass Balls and Shining Gold. It was then washed with Devlan Mud. I did both of the metal washes after I’d changed water and thoroughly washed the brushes.

I think Skarre’s turned out quite well. I like the cartoony quality of the flesh and how vivid the purple turned out. I considered detailing the trim of her coat in gold, but that seemed like too much effort!

Hope this painting guide proves useful.

Owen

PS I photographed the paints used in each stage too.

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Kommander Sorscha Kratikoff: Painting Guide

Owen — Tue, 07 Dec 2010 21:29:35 +0000

I’m finishing off a few models before my Christmas project. First up is the new Kommander Sorscha from the plastic Khador Battle Box set. I converted and painted the Juggernaut into Beast-09 and the Destroyer will probably find its way onto eBay (I have two already). I didn’t put too much time into painting Sorscha, about 3 hours in total, as I just want to finish up a few stray models before Christmas. She was my only unpainted Khador model. Next up on my desk is the new sculpt of Skarre (last unpainted Cryx model) and Al-Vianna, a proxy for Kaya.

Kommander Sorcha was finished yesterday. Here’s a quick guide for how I painted her -

I undercoated the model using black Gesso.
I tackled the reds next using the technique described here.
Next up was the flesh – I base coated it Tallarn Flesh. It was washed with Ogryn Flesh, thenfollowed by adding increasing amounts of Elf Flesh to the base coat up to a pure Elf Flesh highlight.
The eyes were painted Kommando Khaki and dotted with Chaos Black.
The hat was based Battlefield Brown, drybrushed Khemri Brown, then Kommando Khaki and finally Bleached Bone. This was washed with Devlan Mud.
Other leathers were based Battlefield Brown and highlighted Bestial Brown. Again Devlan Mud was used for the wash.
The metals are either Shining Gold or Boltgun Metal. These are washed with … you guessed it … Devlan Mud.
Finally I based the model using my basic basing scheme.

Hopefully that all makes sense.

Owen

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Beast-09 and eButcher (Video)

Owen — Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:02:37 +0000

Here’s a quick video featuring Khador’s two biggest beat-sticks!

Enjoy!

Owen

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Nomad Warjack: Video Painting Guide

Owen — Sun, 08 Aug 2010 10:30:39 +0000

Here’s a quick video painting guide for the mercenary Nomad Warjack.

Don’t forget to watch the HD version if your internet connection can handle it!

Owen

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Proxying the Pureblood Warpwolf

Owen — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 15:00:50 +0000

Continuing my ‘proxied’ Circle Orboros army here’s my Pureblood Warpwolf. The miniature is a limited edition Wolfen from the Confrontation range called Varghar. I chopped off the large axe he was carrying in his left hand and decided to base him on ‘stone’ rather than the skull and bone pile he came with. I think he makes a decent proxy for the Pureblood.

I decided to try something different when painting its skin. The model was undercoated white, which I touched up with a wash of watered down Skull White. I then glazed it with a very pale blue glaze made up of 1:1:2 Space Wolves Grey:Water:Glaze Medium. Glaze medium is a retardent so it took about 24 hours to dry! I made a dark navy/grey glaze which I applied to the fur. I applied this while the other glaze was still wet. Once dried all areas received a watered down Asurmen Blue wash. The model (except the fur) was then drybrushed (using downward strokes) a 1:1 mix of Skull White:Space Wolves Grey. Finally high level edges were picked out with pure Shull White.

The other colours are just watered down base colours with a wash applied.

Apart from the waiting time it was a quick miniature to paint.

Owen

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Kommander Strakhov: Video Painting Guide

Owen — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 20:03:06 +0000

Here’s a video painting guide for Kommander Strakhov. Enjoy!

Don’t forget to watch the HD version if your internet connection can handle it!

Owen

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Widowmaker Marksman: Complete

Owen — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:27:17 +0000

Wow! I haven’t painted a Khadoran miniature since November last year, when I finished my Mortar Crew. I primed the Marksman, Strakhov and the Epic Butcher earlier and started painting the Marksman. It took about 1.5hrs to complete. The paint is still drying in the photos below.

I’ll complete the base when I paint the other guys.

As an aside – this miniature was proudly sponsored by Lost Hemisphere Radio – Episode 7!

Owen

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Warpwolf, Wolfen, Warpwolf?

Owen — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 21:35:34 +0000

The Confrontation Wolfen miniatures make great proxies for Warpwolves. I’ve never been that interested in starting a Circle Orboros force, but I’ve had these old Confrontation miniatures for years and when I saw the Warpwolf Stalker I thought they’d make perfect proxies. The only Warpwolf miniature I actually like is the Pureblood; the original Warpwolf is in a weird pose and the new Stalker, certainly next to these Wolfen miniatures, is only so-so. These Wolfen will never be tournament legal, but I don’t care. It’s about putting paint on some neglected miniatures. I’ll never play Confrontation, so they may as well be used for something worthwhile!

Anyway, here are a few more of photos of my ‘impostor’ Warpwolves.

Here’s the painting scheme (and more-or-less the order I painted it in) -

Skin: Codex Grey; Fortress Grey; Fortress Grey + Skull White (50:50); Fortress Grey + Skull White (33:66)
Gums: Gore Red
Ears: Elf Flesh (DB)
Armour (Green): Orkhide; Orkhide + Knarloc (50:50)
Leather: Snakebite
Claws: Graveyard + Snakebite (66:33)
Armour (Metal): Brass Balls + Graveyard (50:50)
Sword: Boltgun
Everything: Watered down Magic Wash
Base (Earth): Watered down Graveyard Earth
Base (Stone): Watered down Codex Grey; Fortress Grey (DB); Badab Black (Wash)

I’ve 4-5 more of these guys unpainted in the shed. I wonder which Circle warlock is good with Warpwolves?

Owen

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Malifaux – Painting The Executioner (The Guild)

Owen — Mon, 31 May 2010 09:57:33 +0000

Here’s a step-by-step video guide to painting the Executioner. I only had two hours to paint him, so I had to rush slightly. I think he’s turned out pretty well and will fit in with the aesthetic of the Lady Justice crew.

I have a 30 soul stone game on Tuesday, so I’m looking forward to seeing how this guy performs.

Owen

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Flames of War – Irish Guards Sherman Tanks

Owen — Thu, 20 May 2010 17:00:48 +0000

I’ve been interested in Operation Market Garden for a long time and the release of Hell’s Highway and A Bridge Too Far gave me a push to paint up some more Sherman tanks to support my US Paratroopers. Saying the tanks are painted as Irish Guards is a bit of an untruth. I’ve not painted on Guards or squadron markings as I’ll probably reuse the tanks in different situations.

Anyway, they’re very easy to paint – I sprayed them with Army Painter Green, base coated them in Vallejo Russian Uniform, highlighted with a small amount of Bleached Bone added, painted the tracks with Boltgun Metal, and then picked out the other details with browns and beiges. I used Army Painters Dark Shade as a paint on dip, applied the decals and then sprayed them with the Army Painter Matt Varnish spray. That sounds like a lot of work, but when you’re painting 6 tanks at once you fly through the steps. Here’s a close up –

I’ll consider weathering them at some stage, but will probably wait until I have a larger force. Between them, my older Shermans and some US Paratroopers I can field a small Irish Guards army. My intention is probably to us a Paratrooper army with Guards support.

I’ve also been adding to my Late War German army. More on that later.

Owen

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Dirty Meg: Complete

Owen — Wed, 19 May 2010 20:00:10 +0000

I’m trying not to get totally sidetracked by other projects, but in the last while terrain, Malifaux, Epic Armageddon and Flames of War have all distracted my from painting my Privateers. I’ve had a unit of Press Gangers and Dirty Meg on the go for a couple of months, but they kept getting bumped by the other projects. Anyway, excuses, excuses! Here’s Dirty Meg finished -

She’s a pretty easy minature to paint. I started with the flesh – Tallaran Flesh, two watered down Ogryn Flesh washes and then added progressive amounts of Elf Flesh to Tallaran Flesh. Next up I painted the apron and blouse with Khemri Brown. I lightened the apron with Snakebite Leather and then added Bleached Bone for a highlight. The blouse is Bleached Bone over the brown and then highlights with progressive amounts of Skull White added. Her trousers were based Shadow Grey and I added Space Wolves Grey for the highlights. They were washed with Asurmen Blue. Her hair is Snakebite Leather mixed with Khador Red Highlight (an orange colour). They’re all of the main colours. Everything (apart form the trousers) received a 1:1:1 wash of water, Devlan Mud and Badab Black. It makes her look appropriately grimy.

I now have a 35pt force painted. I’d rather not field this many solos at 35pts, but until the Press Gangers are completed this is the only fully painted Talion Charter force I can field at this size.

Captain Phinneus Shae
- Buccaneer
- Commodore Cannon & Crew (Commodore and 3 Crewmen)
Lady Aiyana & Master Holt
Sea Dog Crew (Leader and 9 Grunts)
- Mr. Walls Sea Dog Crew Quartermaster
- 2 Sea Dog Crew Riflemen
Bosun Grogspar
Dirty Meg
- Mariner
Doc Killingsworth
First Mate Hawk
Lord Rockbottom

Owen

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Malifaux – Painting Lady Justice’s Crew (The Guild)

Owen — Sun, 16 May 2010 16:51:33 +0000

Here’s a video of the completed crew. I need to do a little bit more work on the bases, but otherwise they’re finished.

Owen

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Malifaux – Painting Lady Justice (The Guild)

Owen — Fri, 14 May 2010 21:45:40 +0000

I’m in the middle of writing a battle report from my first game. I hate playing games with unpainted miniatures and the crew was only partially painted for that one. I decided I’d remedy the situation. This video shows Lady Justice painted. The crew are over half finished, so hopefully I’ll get them finished over the next few days.

Owen

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Undercoating Models using Gesso

Owen — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 20:11:28 +0000

Gesso? What’s that? It’s the stuff that painters often use to prepare a canvas before applying paints to it. It comes in a variety of different colours, well at least white, black and grey, and is itself a water soluble acrylic. So, why would you use this stuff and not a spray? One word – consistency.

I find that sprays are prone to inconsistency due to varying climatic conditions and potentially over-spraying. I do most of my spraying in my shed (workshop) which can get pretty cold and is a dampish place. In winter it is too cold to spray effectively most of the time, so rather than just putting up with grainy or misty spray I decided to look for an alternative. That’s when a friend recommended Gesso. There are several different brands, but Liquitex came recommended, so that’s what I picked up.

(The models above are shiny as they are still drying. Gesso dries matt.)

Using Gesso is not for the faint hearted. It’s a gloopy substance that looks like it should never be put near a finely sculpted miniature. I water it down slightly, but as it goes on it still seems to obscure their details horribly. Here’s where a little faith is needed. As it dries it clings tightly to the detail. It dries in a few hours, but 24 hours is the recommendation. All of the detail is crisp and sharp and I find the process to be more reliable than spraying. The coverage is anywhere you can get a brush and the finish is a tough undercoat that will easily take your paints.

Anyway – that’s a long winded post to say, “Try Gesso, it’s great!”.

Owen

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Khador Mortar Crew: Painting Guide

Owen — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:00:30 +0000

I bought these miniatures ages ago, but finishing painting them is pretty momentous. I’m am now fully painted before MkII. Okay, there are a couple of caveats – first one, that’s all of my Warmachine stuff painted, I still have some Hordes miniatures to do. Second one is that I’ve bought the miniatures for my MkII project, which I’ll start in January.

I painted these guys to test out the paint scheme for the Winter Guard I’ll pick up to add to my army. I like the look of the Rifle Corps and will probably grab a unit early next year. The colour scheme worked out pretty well. Here are the paints I used -

Skin: Khardic Flesh / Dwarf Flesh (Highlight) / Elf Flesh (Highlight) / Ogryn Flesh Wash
Coat: Great Coat Grey / 1:1:2 Water:Shadow Grey:Greatcoat / Shadow Grey (Highlight) / 1:1 Shadow Grey:Space Wolves Grey (Highlight) / 3:3:1 Water:Asurmen Blue:Badab Black (Wash)
Red Areas: Scab Red (2 watered down coats) / Khador Red Base (2-3 Watered Down Coats) / 1:1 Base:Highlight / Highlight (DB) / Baal Red (Wash)
Caps, Gloves and Armour/Coat Edges: 1:1 Space Wolves Grey:Chaos Black / 2:1 Space Wolves Grey:Chaos Black (Highlight)
Beards/Hair: Bestial Brown (DB)
Fur: Codex Grey (DB)
Leather: 1:1 Scorched Brown:Bestial Brown / Bestial Brown (Hightlight) / 1:1 Snakebite Leather:Bestial Brown (Highlight)
Gun Hilt: Bestial Brown (DB)
Boots: Codex Grey (DB)
Everything Else (apart from Coat, Skin and Red areas): 1:1 Badab Black:Devlan Mud (Wash)

Okay, that’s Khador and Cryx fully painted. Now, I need to get some more Legion assembled – I want to get them done next. I’m looking forward to painting eThagrosh, though assembling him looks like it’ll be unpleasant!

Owen

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My Miniature Painting Setup

Owen — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:53:11 +0000

People often find it hard to know where to begin when staring to paint miniatures. I’ve been painting for a long time now and while I’m no pro, I do have a pretty organised painting setup. First off, I keep everything for my current projects on a tray – this allows me to quickly clear my desk for when I need to work. It has the side benefit of keeping everything exactly as I left it. I own paints from several different ranges, but Citadel (Games Workshop), P3 (Privateer Press) and Vallejo are my main brands. They are all acrylics and mix well together. I also have a selection of inks, washes and dips. I don’t dip, I ‘splash on’, but either way it’s too messy to do at my desk, so the dips are kept in my shed. I have two Army Painter dips out there and I only use them on 15mm soldiers (so far).

I store my paints in an old make-up case that my wife kindly donated to my painting cause. It stores about sixty paints and some brushes – I try to only have the paints on my painting tray that I need for the current projects. Otherwise it gets too cluttered. Another minor organisational thing I do is to write the initials of each paints name on the lid of the paint, i.e. Shadow Grey is SG painted on the lid in that colour. It just makes it easy to find each paint when I’m looking for it. I mix my paints on the mess that is my palette (seen in the foreground) and I only use one water well, but I am careful to always wash it out and refill it after using metallics. I have loads of brushes from different manufacturers, but again I try to only have a few out so I don’t have too much choice!

Above the painting area I have an adjustable lamp with a 100W equivalent energy saving bulb. I usually have the main ceiling light on (another 100W bulb) as well. I’ve toyed with daylight bulbs, but miniatures are rarely seen in daylight as most tournaments and clubs are lit artificially so I paint in artificial light. The only other thing of note is the old paint pot with blue-tac on the top. I use this when I’m painting hero miniatures – it gives a little more control than holding their base!

With the computer in front of my I often have music or podcasts (Iron Agenda and Focus and Fury being staples) playing. Anyway – that’s my painting setup!

Owen

PS Pictured are the Swamp Gobbers, Khador Mortar Crew and Drakhun dismount ready to be based. The latter two are my final Khador miniatures before MkII. I am now fully painted! More on them later.

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Seeing Red – Painting Khadorans

Owen — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:09:11 +0000

Let’s face it, painting red is a pain in the backside. There are some really good thick pigment paints such as P3s Khador Red Base and the Foundation Mechrite Red, but painting them straight over a black undercoat leaves a dull and flat finish (and still takes 2-3 coats!). I don’t claim to have stuck upon a magic formula, but here’s my approach to painting red on my Khadoran models.

Before I get into that I did something very dumb. I needed to paint a Drakhun for a tournament about two years ago, but for the lists I made up I only needed the dismount option. So, despite having the Man-o-War Shocktrooper dismount miniature in a blister, I only assembled and painted the mounted Drakhun and horse. Now, about two years later I’m trying to get all of my Khadror miniatures finished before MkII and the dismount has found it’s way onto my painting list. Thankfully I have painting notes (the virtue of which I’ve talked about before), so at least I know what colours I used on the mounted Drakhun. Here’s that original miniature -

It was a quick paint job, too quick, but the result was decent. I need to reproduce this look in the dismounted version. I’ll focus on the red, but will mention the other colours later.

PAINTING RED

Image 0 Undercoat in black – I sprayed the minaiture with GW Chaos Black and the painted it with a watered down black to get all of the recesses.
Images 1-4 I’m going to suggest something that many painter would baulk at. As red is the most prominent colour I’m going to get it onto the miniature quickly with the biggest brush I can find! To that end I grabbed the Citadel Tank Brush, some watered down Khador Red Base and lashed it onto the miniature in four light coats. This way you get the majority of the miniature painted very quickly. The secret is that the coats should be well watered down, so not to obscure the detail. Don’t worry – the ‘mess’ can be cleaned up later.
Image 5 Next I made a 1:1 mix of Khador Red Base and Khador Red Highlight. With a smaller brush (let’s face it, there are few bigger!) I highlighted the raised surfaces. Be careful not to have too much paint on the brush and draw it slowly along the edges.
Image 6 Up next is a highlight of pure Khador Red Highlight. This highlight is finer. Again, don’t overload the brush.
Image 7 The next two stages are washes. Here’s where I grab the Citadel washes. Baal Red, watered down slightly, is washed over all of the red surfaces.
Image 8 Once dry I then add a small bit of Badab Black to Baal Red and do a deeper wash.

That’s it, the red is now painted, but the miniature does look a mess! I grab a fine brush and clean it up with Chaos Black and then begin painting the remaining colours (Image 9). The steel is Boltgun Metal washed with a 1:1 Badab Black/Devlan Mud wash. The gold is Shining Gold (painted on in 2 watered down coat as it doesn’t go down well over black) washed with Brown Ink. The handle of the pike is painted Bestial Brown and washed with the same wash as the steel areas. Finally the horse emblem on the shoulder was painted Codex Grey and washed with Badab Black.

Quick and easy. Basing is all that remains, but I’ll wait until I have a few miniatures to base before I get out the glue, sand and flock.

Owen

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Feralgeist: Assembling and Painting Guide

Owen — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 11:21:27 +0000

The Feralgeist is the easiest and quickest Hordes or Warmachine miniature I’ve ever painted. It took less than an hour in total. Here’s a step-by-step guide to assembling and painting it.

ASSEMBLING
Assembling the Feralgeist is straightforward enough, but you will need to apply a couple of advanced assembly skills – pinning and using green stuff. Don’t fret, this is a good miniature to try these out on. Clean off all of the pieces with a craft knife, file and Dremel. The body comes in two pieces, with the join happening at two narrow points. This is what needs to be pinned. I took out my pin vice to drill starter guide holes. This isn’t so important in the recessed fitting, but is needed for the corresponding raised bump. For these recessed/raised type joints I use my blade to take the top off the raised part (only partially) so I have a small flat surface to drill into. Once the guide holes were drilled I got out the Dremel and drilled holes that were about 3-4mm deep on each side. I use snipped paper clips as my pins and glued the pieces together (with pin in place!) using super glue. I then glued the jawbone in place and then the miniature to it’s base.

The join between the two parts of the body needs some putty (often called green stuff or brown stuff). These are two part puttys that you blend together and then let air dry. I rolled very thin sausages and laid them across the joins, then with a wet sculpting tool I smoothed the putty across the join and removed the excess. Once it is air dried (I usually leave it 24 hours) I grabbed the Dremel again, but this time with a filing attachment and smoothed over the putty work. The miniature is now ready to prime.

PAINTING AND BASING

Priming: As I was going for an ethereal look I primed the miniature using a white spray and then a watered down coat of Skull White.
Blue: I washed the whole of the Feralgeist with a slightly watered down Asurmen Blue wash. I then drybrushed all raised areas with Skull White with a small amount of Asurmen Blue.
Skeleton and Rubble: This whole area was coated with a heavily watered down Graveyard Earth. The skeleton was then drybrushed with Bestial Brown, Snakebite Leather, 1:1 Snakebite Leather / Bleached Bone and finally pure Bleached Bone. I then painted the flat skeletal surfaces with a heavily watered down Bleached Bone.
Base: I glued (using watered down PVA glue) Builder’s Sand to the base. Once dry it was painted with a heavily watered down Graveyard Earth. One or two larger stones were dotted with Codex Grey. I applied a small amount of flock using PVA glue and then painted the base edge Chaos Black.

That’s it! It’s such a useful addition to any Hordes force and so easy to paint that there is really no excuse for not fielding one. Thraka Green or Baal Red, or any wash for that matter, could be used in place of Asurmen Blue, so producing a Feralgeist that fits the theme of your army is pretty simple.

Owen

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